Saturday, May 10, 2014

May 10, 2014 Tel Aviv

Saturday, May 10, 2014 Tel Aviv

Shabbat in Tel Aviv. Kind of like Wednesday in Tel Aviv except a whole lot more people out, on the beach, in the (open) restaurants.

Tel Aviv hosted a triathlon this morning.  Can't imagine that in Jerusalem (not to mention the challenge of swimming through Hezekiah's Tunnel, about the largest body of water in the vicinity).

I picked up Shayna this morning, took a walk around the port, and then headed to Cousin Dana's house for lunch. I learned that my interview with Helen Hunt on "Who do you think you are" was telecast in Israel, with Hebrew subtitles.  I'd love to get a copy of that!

Here's the family:




With Shayna packing and getting ready for her departure tonight, I headed for dinner with Ken Marcus, a leading scholar and activist on anti-Semitism (who guest lectured in my seminar on anti-Semitism at SF State).  He's in town to give a paper at Tel Aviv University.  We began our dinner at 6 pm and didn't stop talking until 10:15 pm, at a different restaurant for dessert.  A great way to end this sabbatical journey, keeping my brain neurons firing.

Off to bed then to the airport in the morning…

Happy Mother's Day Marci!

Friday, May 9, 2014

Friday, May 9th Tel Avi

Friday, May 9th.

Not a good start to the day.  Walking back last night from Shayna’s hotel, I wasn’t feeling so good.

Let’s just say that Shayna’s food poisoning was probably not food poisoning.  I’m thinking it was a virus…because viruses can be passed from person to person…explaining how, about 24 hours after Shayna displayed symptoms, her dad suffered the exact same ones…up all night…dehydrating…ugh.

And, following Shayna’s pattern, I was feeling a whole lot better by late morning.  

I took a short walk to the Joseph Bau House.  Bao was an Israeli artist, animator, and PR artist who is most widely known as the husband of the couple that were married in a concentration camp.  It was made famous by Spielberg in Schlindler’s List. 

During our eastern Europe trip two years ago, we attended a museum exhibit of Bau’s at the Schindler Museum in Krakow.  There, we met Bao’s two daughters, who have devoted their lives to their father’s
legacy. For our 18th anniversary, Marci and I purchased one of Bao’s pieces, which we put in our bedroom. 


The two daughters are very very energetic and excited, generally, and more so about their late father. We had a great conversation with them in Krakow and I was excited to see them again.

When I just showed up at their dad’s house (now a museum), they were giving a lecture to a group of Israelis.  They invited me to sit and listen.  After the talk, I reminded them that we had met in Krakow. Wow. Wow. Wow.

Not only did they remember, but they recalled that the day after our museum visit, we had seen them walking in Krakow and yelled out to them. Then, one of the sisters told me that she remembered I was a Jewish history professor and that she had tried, unsuccessfully, to contact me about scheduling a visit to the Bay Area.  Another great Israeli moment for me.

I got a picture with them.




Exhausted and not at full strength (at all), I returned to the hotel and slept 3 or 4 hours.  A nice late afternoon walk along the beach to Neve Tzedek and dinner at Susanna Restaurant.  

Now, an early night and lots of sleep.

Oh, yah, it’s also Shabbat.  But in Tel Aviv, who knew?

Just read on Facebook that Ken Marcus, who directed the U.S. government's civil rights office and now created and runs the Louis Brandeis Center to fight anti-Semitism on college campuses, will be in Tel Aviv tomorrow.  We've got dinner planned!  

Thursday, May 8th Kiryat Shmoneh to Tel Aviv

Thursday, May 8th  K. Shmoneh to Tel Aviv

I wrote yesterday's blog post too soon.  Late in the evening, after the Federation meeting call, a massive lightning and thunder storm lit up the Hula Valley.


So much for all of Shayna's clothes that I put on the balcony to dry..

Back to today:

With a shout out to Sarah and Natan Fenner, who met on Kibbutz Hanita while we were all on the first year of Project Otzma, a year-long social service program in Israel, I asked special permission to bring Shayna to Hanita so I could show her where I studied Ulpan, worked, and opened my year in Israel.

Shayna started her day at Kibbutz Yiron, located high on the ridge overlooking the Hula Valley and bordering Lebanon. BHDS-Marin’s sister school is located there.  They all spent the morning with their Israeli counterparts.  Shayna reports it was a great time.

Hanita, also on a mountain ridge bordering Lebanon, formed in the 1930s as the only settlement in the area, securing that critical mountaintop, very close to Rosh Ha’nikra, for the eventual Jewish state.

It took us about half an hour to make the drive, winding on roads that took us to see great views, valleys, and several Lebanese villages to the right of the car.

The kibbutz looks a whole lot better than the last time I visited 4 years ago.  It appears they have (finally) abandoned the classical kibbutz approach to finances.  Now with private homes, a dining room that charges for meals, it seems that Hanita now has the resources to improve the place.

I brought along my photos from 1986, sharing them with any old-timers we could find on the kibbutz.  Then, with Shayna as photographer, we retook the shots.  Here’s some:



Welcome to Kibuttz Hanita

The Kolbo Market..where ham was sold..



Remnants of a Katusha rocket.  Several fell during my months there.

1987 in the kitchen..

Standing in the same spot today...

This is for you, Natan.. I think you worked on the dish line..



The door to my room. Now storage area for the house above it.

The bomb shelter made into a kid's play area

They've made huge improvements to the Hanita Museum. It was a messy room full of artifacts.  Now, it's a professional, multi-room, museum telling the story of Hanita's formation.  They made a film, in English, and the museum director gave Shayna and me our own screening.

We made it to Tel Aviv by the afternoon (driving through the tunnel in Haifa). Put Tel Aviv driving as my LEAST favorite driving activity (though I haven’t tried yet in Athens or Cairo). Fortunately, the GPS directed us to the car rental agency where I got rid of the thing and celebrated NOT having to navigate this city. (Also cost nearly 300 shekels, about $90, to fill up the car with gas. Ouch.)

Shayna told me that she hadn’t yet eaten falafel on the trip.  Dinner decision made. 



We spent some time getting shopping done before returning her to her hotel.

A quick hello from Dizengoff Center..

I dropped off Shayna to her group at the hotel and made my way back to my hotel...

Wednesday, May 7, 2014

Wednesday, May 7th Kiryat Shmoneh

Wednesday, May 7 Kiryat Shmoneh

Wake up call at 7:30 am from Beverly. Ouch.  Shayna’s been up all night…..let’s just say…. dehydrating in every way possible. She’s in no condition to join the group for a trip to Tzfat and…if you follow this…is in need of new clothes and new shoes. Poor thing. It was a rough night.

I hurried over to Kibbutz Gonen from Kfar Blum to find a very sick looking Shayna who now needed yet another clean set of clothes.  Ugh.

I got her to Kfar Blum, with only one stop in the bushes for her to clear her stomach out just one more time. If you know Shayna as constantly happy and smiling, this wasn’t her. With even the clothes she was wearing over from Kibbutz Gonen now out of service, she put on my gym clothes.

We surmised that she had some reaction to food or water. No fever. Started about 7 or 8 hours after she last ate.  Her body definitely wanted everything OUT.

After yet another shower, this time in my hotel room at Kfar Blum, she fell asleep for a few hours.  

In the middle of her sleep, I heard an airplane buzzing the kibbutz.  While this might be cause for alarm, given our locale, it turned out to be a crop duster.



When Shayna woke up, she could sustain a little food and water then more hours of sleep. We went back to Kibbutz Gonen so she could find new clean clothes and see how she’s feeling. When I respectfully turned around so she could change in private, I didn’t immediately realize that she just climbed into bed and slept even more hours.

By mid-afternoon, she was awake, better rested, and now clear of the food poisoning. An hour later, she felt good enough to want to rejoin the group for their tour of Tiberias and ride on the Lake Kinnerit “Disco Cruise.”

We’d been calling Marci all through the day and took this picture to convince her (and you) that Shayna was back to herself.  Yeah, Shayna.



She called about 9 pm, after the group returned from Tiberias, to let me know she was just fine now and had a great time.

As I started to pack, the intense heat of the last few days changed to a massive Spring thunder and lightening storm.  Here's a taste of it:



Tomorrow, I get some time to bring Shayna to my kibbutz (Hanita), located on the Lebanese border near Rosh Hanikra.

I’d like to say “off to bed” but I actually have an 11 pm video conference call-in to a meeting at Federation!

Lailah tov, sort of..

Tuesday, May 6 Kiryat Shmoneh

Tuesday, May 6 Kiryat Shmoneh

With the country essentially closed so that Israelis can all attend family BBQs, I spent the morning catching up on this blog and thinking about BBQ. While I had an invitation from my third cousins, it would be a 90 minute one-way drive (without holiday traffic) so I decided to slow things down.  Instead, I took a drive to Metulla, the actual border town that is north of Kiryat Shmoneh.  They have a famous steak house, Tachana, that certainly qualifies for the day!  (and they were open).

With all due respect to vegetarian Shayna and vegan Weiss family, this is a carnivore's heaven.  They start with a plate of various salads, punctuated by the knife through two different loaves of bread.



I came to this restaurant four years ago…and know not to fill up on these salads because…

..here's the steak. Ruben, are you with me on this one?


With lunch finished and Metulla essentially empty, I took a drive around to see the views. Even as Metullah has been in the center of war zones too many times, it's situated on a mountaintop in the midst of a lush green valley, with rolling hills on all sides. (it's just that Hezbollah vehicles drive back and forth on some of them). 

Here's the nearest Lebanese town..



I headed for what was “the good fence,” an opening in the border with Lebanon that let folks through for medical care, education, and jobs.  It closed in 2000 when Israel withdrew from Lebanon and the power shift among southern Lebanese wasn’t all that good for Israel.



What do you do when the sign definitely tells you to stop…but it’s a very old looking sign and the gate is open..??   

A single tourist in a rental car driving on Israel’s independence day?  I turned around J

Back to Kfar Blum to spend some hours in the Kfar Blum spa.  Sauna, Turkish bath, steam room, water cave (with water jets everywhere that are triggered as soon as you walk in), cold water barrel overhead (skipped that one), and a one hour massage.  Happy Birthday, Israel!


With some stores opening after sunset, I took a drive back to town to explore one of the new malls. Shopping, dinner, and back to K’far Blum.

Monday, May 5th Kiryat Shmoneh, Har Halutz

Monday May 5, 2014 Kiryat Shmoneh, Har Halutz

Today is Yom Hazikaron, Israel’s memorial day. When I was here four years ago, I went to the cemetery for the community’s commemoration. I asked about a kibbutz ceremony here at k’far blum but then decided that I wanted to have a new experience.

When I lived in K. Shmoneh in 1987, it was called “ketusha city” by Time magazine, a reference to the more than 10,000 ketusha rockets that fell from southern Lebanon in one summer. In response, the teachers in the town had the army drag one of the mobile rocket launching trucks from Lebanon to the entrance to K. Shmoneh, where the kids painted it bright colors. Interestingly, the rocket launching truck is gone, replaced by brightly painted tanks. While I don’t know, I’m imagining that they thought it better to present the vehicles that protect the city, rather than the one that brought death and destruction.





The municipality created a memorial to those who died right next to the tanks. 


I decided that this was where I wanted to be when the sirens sounded at 11 am.

A single wrong turn put me and my rental car in a parking lot blocked in by all the other cars getting off the road by 11 am. What the heck.  I parked, got out, and ran like crazy to get to the memorial.  With, literally, seconds to spare, the sirens blasted.



I walked (slowly) back to my car, even choking up a bit to be in the moment.

Believe it or not, I haven’t had much time to write this blog.  I spent a few hours at Kfar Blum getting the blog moving.

Back in Camp Swig days, I was a counselor, then a unit head, for Liora Asa. Liora later enrolled at Berkeley where her mom made me promise to watch over her as another older brother. We’ve kept in touch over the years, even as Liora and her husband Michael made aliyah to har halutz, a hilltop community created by the World Union of Progressive Judaism to bring (mostly) young American Jews, infused with the summer camp style of Judaism, to Israel. 

I visited four years ago, which happen to be the day of her daughter’s bat mitzvah.  Today, I visited again, with much more time to sit and chat.

On the way down (about a hour’s drive), I witnessed an accident on the road, with a car flipped over in a single lane construction zone, another damaged car beside it, lots of police, and a back up that resembled a 4 kilometer-long parking lot.

On Yom Hazikaron especially, as someone once told me (and I don’t know if its true) that more Israelis have died in road accidents than in wars. Drive safely, Marc!

Liora, Michael, their kids, a few neighbors, their neighbors kids, another alum of Camp Swig and I spent a few hours chatting and walking around the yishuv (community/ colony).  It was, of course, great to see them, to reconnect, to hear about their life in Israel, to share about BDS (the subject of their greatest concern).

Sadly, Liora told me that fewer than 10% of the community’s current residents are part of the original mission/vision of pluralistic Judaism in Israel.  Other than kabbalat Shabbat, she explained, most Judaism is gone. In one way, it makes perfect sense. The community has normalized to the secular nationalism of most Israelis. In another, though, it was sad to realize that the vision didn’t materialize. Liora explained, quite powerfully, that her life is taken over by trying to get over the “abyss” of managing all it takes to raise three kids in a more remote village in Israel.

Thanks to Waze, we learned that the traffic had not eased.  I asked if there was another way back to Kfar Blum.  Even as Michael warned me to keep driving, even when I think I’ve come “to the end of the world,” I decided to take “the scenic route” back. 

For those of you locals, here it is: Exit the Yishuv, take a right on Rt. 854, then a right on Rt. 89, then left on Rt. 899, a right on Rt. 8966, a left on Rt. 886, a left on Rt. 90 and voila!  Back in K. Shmoneh.

It was a beautiful drive, passing the Geffen industrial park (which I visited in its origins in 1981), then through Hurfeish, a Druze village I visited either in 81 or 86 (can’t remember!).  The drive moved along the top of the ridge of mountains separating Lebanon from the Hula Valley.  The views were stunning.  A quick right turn and I was descending the side of the mountain into the Valley near Kfar Blum.

Literally as I was entering K. Shmoneh, I received a call from Shayna’s kibbutz mom inviting me over for their Independence Day BBQ an hour later. (As the sun sets on Memorial Day, the country transitions to the celebration of Independence Day). Hard for many to mourn their fallen soldiers one day, and party the next.. 

At the BBQ, I took a seat with grandpa and a bunch of uncles in the family.  It was a great exercise of my Hebrew as I worked as hard as I could to engage only in Hebrew, and to sustain it as long as possible.  While we did break into English on occasion, it felt good to sit on the patio, eating steak, and chatting in Hebrew with the family.


The kibbutz (Sde Nehemiah) holds a massive outdoor Independence Day show with singing and dancing by the kids. We all walked over…

when I realized that this was the same kibbutz that Rivi (Rebecca) attended on her 8th grade trip. After the show, 


they set off fireworks.  



Then, some folk dancing..

Shayna went back to her room on the kibbutz while I headed to kfar blum.

When I arrived at kfar blum, I was one of the only people at the hotel. Something happened as Yom Hazikaron changed to Yom Ha'atzmaut.  Literally hundreds of Israelis, mostly seniors, descended on Kfar Blum by the bus load. The place was packed!  They had a "sing a long" in the auditorium..


Sunday, May 4th Jerusalem-Kiryat Shmoneh

Sunday, May 4, 2014

After college, I joined a group of 50 people (including Sarah and Natan Fenner, Adam Weisberg, and Sharon Epel) on a year course in Israel, Otzma I.  We were sponsored by SF Federation and the Jewish Agency in Israel, living and working in five different locales throughout Israel.  While we called it “the Jewish Peace Corps,” the Israelis didn’t like the idea that it was a developing country in need of help.
I spent the last months of the year in Kiryat Shmoneh, a town in the far north of the Galil, near the borders of Lebanon and Syria. We lived in really lousy old apartments, with Jewish Agency-issued pots, pans, and kitchenware, teaching English in a local elementary school. Even as K. Shmoneh acted as a revolving door; the government sent new immigrants there since it was really inexpensive.  The immigrants left at the earliest possible moment for the center of the country.

K. Shmoneh is widely recognized as the armpit of Israel.  (and that’s the nicest characterization I will write in a blog). 

That said, I love the place. It sits in the Hula Valley, with the Golan Heights on one side and the Lebanese border mountain range on the other. It is lush and green with tributaries to the Jordan river (and the Jordan river itself). In the summer, it’s a prime destination for Israelis, who stay at one of the many kibbutz hotels, or camp by the waterside. They have several kayak concessions as well as a cable car that goes up the mountain (and a roller coaster go-kart deal for a fun ride down).

Today’s destination: Kiryat Shmoneh.

But first, a Federation moment. 

Reading over the schedule for the Israel IGI group, I saw that they are meeting Sunday morning at 8:30 am with Gershon Baskin. As it turns out, Gershon was the one who created a back channel between Hamas and the Israeli government during negotiations to get Gilad Shalit released.  He was the intermediary that carried messages back and forth, eventually realizing the goal of Shalit’s freedom. He recently published a book of the experience.





That’s too hard to pass up so I delayed my departure to K. Shmoneh so I could rejoin (re-crash) the Federation group. Gershon actually didn’t discuss Shalit at all, instead giving his assessment of the chances for peace, the various proposals out there, and his ideas on what needs to happen. He took questions from the group and then signed copies of his book.  I had him sign one to Shayna.


A bonus was Barak Lazoon. Barak lived in SF for four years building relationships between the Bay Area and Israel. We hit it off really well when he lived in the Bay Area and it was great to get a moment to see him and say hello.  One of his four sons became a bar mitzvah on Shabbat. Mazal tov.
Back to the hotel to check out and make my way to the car rental place. I’ll just say it takes a long time to rent a car in Israel. It took 45 minutes (with no lines) to go through all the processing, to get the car outfitted, test the gps (a necessity for me!), learn about the keypad by the steering wheel that needs a special code or the key won’t work, get it filled with gas, and begin the (harrowing) journey through the streets of Jerusalem to the highway.

Fortunately, I was joined by Lee Derrin, dad of Jacob who is on the trip with Shayna. Since Jacob is a type 1 diabetic, he and Brenda are shadowing the trip in case Jacob needs support. Lee and I enjoyed hours of chatting as we drove up Route 6 and then made our way to the upper galil, and finally to Kibbutz Gonen, where the Derrins were staying. I made my way to K’far Blum..but first..
A sentimental trip back to K. Shmoneh. It basically has one main street through the center of town with a strip of various falafel stands. I parked the car and revisited my favorite place for a quick bite. 

Even as the place was really rather old, gross, and “local,” I loved it..reliving life “back in the day.” 
I should say that even as that part of town remained untouched in the last 30 years, the rest of K. Shmoneh has grown precipitously. It is now home to many from the former Soviet Union. They’ve built three different malls, a new movie theater, and more restaurants than I can count. (It had only one sit-down restaurant when I lived here in 1987).

Tonight is erev yom ha’zikaron, the evening of memorial day. Shayna is staying with an Israeli family from Brandeis-Marin’s sister school. Her adoptive mom invited me to join their kibbutz for their ceremony. It was, of course, quite moving, especially as a member of their family died in the Yom Kippur war. A eulogy was delivered to the kibbutz by the kids’ grandmother, who was the sister of the soldier killed.

They offered songs in between the eulogies.  Here's one:




Back to Kfar Blum to sleep.